More rareties for those you love

When I was growing up, roasted beef was a Sunday treat we had once or twice a month. We didn't have a lot of money, but mom refused to buy crummy beef. When we ate it, she sought out butchers who knew what they were cutting and custom cut it for her.

Mom learned to make yorkshire puddings from Canadian friends, and they became part of the Sunday ritual. In British cooking, a single big pud would be portioned and served under the roast beef with horseradish sauce. Mom made them in individual muffin tins and passed the bread basket around the table. We'd slice them up with our beef, and the leftovers (beef and puds) found their way into my bag lunches on Monday and Tuesday (and, if the roast was big enough, Wednesday). Most things are better the second day.

If you are going to make the financial committment to a prime rib roast, this is the classic treatment to serve with it. Get the center cut of the ribs, like 5-9, for the tenderest beef. A good butcher can help you make the most of this pricey cut. Leave the ribs in and roast it standing up for the most flavorful treatment. Remove some of the tallow on the tenderloin side and give the whole thing a good rub of salt and pepper, that's all it needs. When it is finished roasting, let it rest for ten minutes. Remove the ribs in one piece (save for soup) and carve it against the grain.

On the side serve these flavorful beef popovers.

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
2/3 cup milk at room temperature
2/3 cup water at room temperature
3 large eggs
4 tablespoons roast beef pan drippings

In a bowl combine flour and salt. With a handheld mixer add the milk, in a stream, until smooth. Add water and eggs and beat until combined well and bubbly. Let stand, covered, at room temperature for 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.

Divide drippings among eight muffin pan cups. Heat the cups in the oven until almost smoking. Beat batter until bubbly and divide among muffin cups. Bake 10 minutes in lower third of the oven without opening the oven door. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees F and continue to bake for another 10 minutes until puffed, crisp and golden brown. Serve immediately.

Once the roast is resting before carving, turn up the heat in the oven and finish the puddings with the pan drippings you scavenged from the bottom of the roasting pan.

These are heavenly. Some of the best memories of my childhood are what was in the brown paper bag I carried to school everyday.

Food IS love, and that's why I share these memories with you.