The Smoke of Summer

I'm a long way from being a barbecue expert, although a friend and I head out to hit all the local joints and we're about ready to start researching the backyard-cook-in-a-55-gallon-drum-that-only-the-locals-know-about in Southern Maryland. (In spite of the fact that my friend Tyler Cowen says that there is no decent barbecue to be found in this part of the world, I insist on thinking that there have to be some enterprising North Carolina expats around here.)

I was just poking around the Internets with a little curiosity and Google when I ran into a recipe for 'cued ribs that I think a home cook can make on a trusty Weber kettle without embarrassing themselves. This is kinda similar to the root beer ribs that Emeril made on his show the other night, but it has the smoky goodness of the grill (Emeril baked his) and I think I'm game to give this a try. Steve Raichlen is the chef and he is to 'cue what Bobby Flay is to the grill. Figure on one 13-rib rack per person. It looks like a lot, but there really isn't a lot of meat on most of them.

Method: Indirect grilling
Advance preparation: 4 hours for curing the ribs

Ingredients:
4 racks baby back pork ribs (6 to 8 pounds total)
2 cups firmly packed brown sugar
1/2 cup coarse salt (kosher or sea)
1/4 cup freshly ground black pepper
Dr. Pepper barbecue sauce, for serving

You’ll also need:
2 cups wood chips or chunks (preferably apple), soaked for 1 hour in water to cover, then drained; (cook's note: I hate the flavor of Liquid Smoke, which is included in the sauce above and suggest adding an additional cup of soaked hickory chips instead)
rib rack

Remove the thin, papery membrane from the back of each rack of ribs: Turn a rack meat side down. Insert a sharp implement, such as the tip of a meat thermometer, under the membrane (the best place to start is right next to the first rib bone). Using a dishcloth or pliers to gain a secure grip, pull off the membrane. Repeat with the remaining racks.

Place the ribs on baking sheets.

Place the brown sugar, salt, and pepper in a bowl and stir to mix well. (Actually your fingers work better for mixing a rub than a spoon or whisk does.) Sprinkle this rub all over the ribs on both sides, patting it onto the meat with your fingertips. Cover the ribs with plastic wrap and let cure in the refrigerator for 3 hours

Set up the grill for indirect grilling and preheat to medium.

If using a gas grill, place all of the wood chips or chunks in the smoker box or smoker pouch and run the grill on high until you see smoke, then reduce the heat to medium. If using a charcoal grill, place a large drip pan in the center, preheat the grill to medium, then toss all of the wood chips or chunks on the coals.

When ready to cook, using damp paper towels, wipe the excess rub off the ribs. Place the ribs, preferably on a rib rack, in the center of the hot grate, over the drip pan and away from the heat. Cover the grill and cook the ribs until tender, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours.

When the ribs are done, they’ll be handsomely browned and the meat will have shrunk back about 1/4 inch from the ends of the bones. Transfer the cooked ribs to a platter or cutting board. Serve them as whole racks, cut the racks into pieces, or carve them into individual ribs. Serve them with the St. Louis-style barbecue sauce.

Yield: Serves 4 really hungry people or 8 folks with average appetites.

I don't know how they'd side dish this in St. Louis, but I do know Carolina. Good 'cue needs coleslaw, baked beans and corn on the cob on the side in that part of the world. Do the corn on the grill. Remove as much of the silk as you can without shucking, peel a little of the husk back from the tops of the ears, and then soak them, well covered, in cold water for a half an hour. They can go right on the hottest part of the grill and will steam in the husks. Start them about 5 minutes before the rest of the meal is served. I like to serve unsalted melted butter in a bowl and a pastry brush at the table. Popcorn salt adheres the best.

I've got a branch of Tyler Cowen says that there is no decent barbecue to be found in this part of the world, I insist on thinking that there have to be some enterprising North Carolina expats around here.)

I was just poking around the Internets with a little curiosity and Google when I ran into a recipe for 'cued ribs that I think a home cook can make on a trusty Weber kettle without embarrassing themselves. This is kinda similar to the root beer ribs that Emeril made on his show the other night, but it has the smoky goodness of the grill (Emeril baked his) and I think I'm game to give this a try. Steve Raichlen is the chef and he is to 'cue what Bobby Flay is to the grill. Figure on one 13-rib rack per person. It looks like a lot, but there really isn't a lot of meat on most of them.

Method: Indirect grilling
Advance preparation: 4 hours for curing the ribs

Ingredients:
4 racks baby back pork ribs (6 to 8 pounds total)
2 cups firmly packed brown sugar
1/2 cup coarse salt (kosher or sea)
1/4 cup freshly ground black pepper
Dr. Pepper barbecue sauce, for serving

You’ll also need:
2 cups wood chips or chunks (preferably apple), soaked for 1 hour in water to cover, then drained; (cook's note: I hate the flavor of Liquid Smoke, which is included in the sauce above and suggest adding an additional cup of soaked hickory chips instead)
rib rack

Remove the thin, papery membrane from the back of each rack of ribs: Turn a rack meat side down. Insert a sharp implement, such as the tip of a meat thermometer, under the membrane (the best place to start is right next to the first rib bone). Using a dishcloth or pliers to gain a secure grip, pull off the membrane. Repeat with the remaining racks.

Place the ribs on baking sheets.

Place the brown sugar, salt, and pepper in a bowl and stir to mix well. (Actually your fingers work better for mixing a rub than a spoon or whisk does.) Sprinkle this rub all over the ribs on both sides, patting it onto the meat with your fingertips. Cover the ribs with plastic wrap and let cure in the refrigerator for 3 hours

Set up the grill for indirect grilling and preheat to medium.

If using a gas grill, place all of the wood chips or chunks in the smoker box or smoker pouch and run the grill on high until you see smoke, then reduce the heat to medium. If using a charcoal grill, place a large drip pan in the center, preheat the grill to medium, then toss all of the wood chips or chunks on the coals.

When ready to cook, using damp paper towels, wipe the excess rub off the ribs. Place the ribs, preferably on a rib rack, in the center of the hot grate, over the drip pan and away from the heat. Cover the grill and cook the ribs until tender, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours.

When the ribs are done, they’ll be handsomely browned and the meat will have shrunk back about 1/4 inch from the ends of the bones. Transfer the cooked ribs to a platter or cutting board. Serve them as whole racks, cut the racks into pieces, or carve them into individual ribs. Serve them with the St. Louis-style barbecue sauce.

Yield: Serves 4 really hungry people or 8 folks with average appetites.

I don't know how they'd side dish this in St. Louis, but I do know Carolina. Good 'cue needs coleslaw, baked beans and corn on the cob on the side in that part of the world. Do the corn on the grill. Remove as much of the silk as you can without shucking, peel a little of the husk back from the tops of the ears, and then soak them, well covered, in cold water for a half an hour. They can go right on the hottest part of the grill and will steam in the husks. Start them about 5 minutes before the rest of the meal is served. I like to serve unsalted melted butter in a bowl and a pastry brush at the table. Popcorn salt adheres the best.

I've got a branch of Red, Hot and Blue down the street from me, but those tomato-soaked ribs don't do a thing for me. You get all greasy and sloppy and for what? Not worth the effort.