Supporting the Locals

I love good French Onion Soup. It's sort of a party in a bowl and you have permission to play with your food. The key problem is "good." I have had more than my share of mediocre. If you want really good French Onion Soup, you have to make it yourself.

2 1/2 pounds yellow onions, halved, and sliced 1/4-inch thick (8 cups)
1/4 pound unsalted butter
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup medium-dry sherry
1/2 cup brandy or Cognac
1 1/2 cups good dry white wine
4 cups beef stock
4 cups veal stock
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
8 oz. finely grated Emmenthaler cheese
Four thick slices of baguette
Freshly grated Parmesan

In a large stockpot on medium-high heat, saute the onions with the butter and bay leaf for 20 minutes, until the onions turn a rich golden brown color. Deglaze the pan with the sherry and brandy and simmer uncovered for 5 minutes. Add the white wine and simmer uncovered for 15 more minutes.

Add the beef and veal stocks plus salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then simmer uncovered for 20 minutes. Remove the bay leaf, taste for salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into narrow bowls and top with the baguette slice and the cheeses. Place in an oven broiler (500 degrees) until cheese melts and just begins to brown. Serve, warning your guests that the bowls are very hot.

I'll eat this any time of the year, but I have to admit that it is particularly yummy if you've been out in the snow and cold all day. After a day of clearing the driveway or sidewalks, this is the anti-freeze that restores me to happiness and health. Particularly with a reuben sandwich served on the side. Anthony's Restaurant, around the corner from me, makes a pastrami Reuben which is spectacular. This is your basic Greek pizza and burger joint, like the one on the old Saturday Night Live, and once you figure out what they are good at, they are very consistent. The pizza is a greasy mess, but the sandwiches and salads are glorious and cheap. The tzatziki is at least as good as mine and the gyro is superb.

The place is a local institution. The local Democratic Party had their post-election gathering there after the primary a week ago. This is where the cops and local clergy eat, which means good food cheap. The owners also support every civic organization and sports team in town, and I support that. I like the fact that I can go in for take-out and Anthony,Ted and Faye always recognize me and ask how I'm doing. Those are the little touches which mean "community." I like doing business with the locals instead of the giant chains.